This classic Tortue Monopoussoir was introduced in 1999, as part of the Collection Privée Cartier Paris. It was initially offered in three different case metals: white gold, yellow gold, and rose gold. This iteration bears a white and blue dial reminiscent of fine porcelain, and possesses a mechanical movement developed by some of independent watchmaking’s finest.
Created by Louis Cartier in 1912, the Tortue was only Cartier’s third wristwatch design, after the Santos Dumont and Tonneau. With its unmistakable DNA and Cartier’s timeless style, the model's tortoise-inspired case quickly became a classic.
Beneath the curved crystal, a modern-style guilloché dial replaces the design of the original model from the 1920s, with the blued steel Breguet style hands and matching inky-blue minute track. An oversized "XII" numeral sits at 12 o'clock, with its dramatic proportions imbuing the design with a more contemporary feel. This is balanced by the "Cartier Paris" signature at 6 o'clock, which is also rendered in the same blue tone. Overall, the dial design blends the best of vintage Cartier, with bolder colours and proportions, combining the past and the present.
This Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir also makes use of the calibre 045MC, which uses a lever escapement, and can only be found in the various Tortue Monopoussoir made by Cartier, in addition to the Tank Monopoussoir and De Bethune Monopoussoir. With a clutch system, the motion of the second wheel to the chronograph’s central wheel is activated by a double swivel pin, removing the "jolt" of the seconds hand which often occurs in chronographs operated by a lateral clutch. The resulting operation allows the hand to smoothly glide across the dial.
Closer look
Brand: | Cartier |
Model: | Tortue Monopoussoir ref. 2396 |
Movement: | Manual-winding calibre 045MC |
Functions: | Chronograph functions, hours, minutes, sub-seconds |
Case Material: | White gold |
Case diameter: | 43x35mm |
Crystal: | Sapphire front and back |
Strap: | from our own collection, blue alligator Cartier strap, baby blue Cartier strap, white gold deployant clasp |
Lug Width: | 18x18mm |
Year: | 1998 |
Box & accessories: | Outer box, box, Cartier travel pouch, Cartier invoice, Collection Privée booklet |
This Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir Ref. 2396 is in very good condition overall. Lights superficial marks can be found on the case consistent with minimal wear over time. The blued steel hands and guilloché on the dial remain in very good condition showing no signs of age. The hallmarks and engravings on the case back are crisp and well defined.
The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.