This 90th anniversary, limited edition Cartier Santos-Dumont was released in 1994, and was limited to only 90 pieces. The piece is distinguished by the combination of a platinum case and a warm-toned salmon dial, an unusual but intriguing colour combination from Cartier.

Released in 1994, this Cartier Santos-Dumont limited edition marked the 90th anniversary of the model. A popular legend suggests that the original watch was created for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont by Louis Cartier, as a practical solution to the problem of trying to use a pocket watch while flying. The 90th anniversary model was limited to 90 pieces, with all the watches being individually numbered on the brushed case back.

This piece is distinguished by its warm-toned salmon dial, highlighting its vintage roots. Notably, the contrast between this orange hue and the platinum case is rarely found in other Cartier pieces. While the brand may be more experimental with their case designs, they have traditionally erred on the more conventional side with their dial colours, preferring neutral tones, making this salmon shade all the more unusual.

Other hallmarks of Cartier’s customary design cues are also present, such as the crisp black Roman numerals with their familiar slant, a sapphire cabochon set in the crown, and blued Breguet-style hands. The platinum case holds true to the original aesthetic, with a robust look that is reinforced by exposed screws on the polished bezel, a detail that was supposedly modelled after the Eiffel Tower. The watch is powered by an ultra-thin Piguet calibre 21, allowing it to retain a slim profile, which in turn enhances its wearability.

Closer look

This Cartier Santos 90th anniversary Is in good condition throughout. The case shows lights superficial marks from relative wear and age of the watch. The case back engravings and hallmarks are crisp and well defined.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.